6 Things You Should Know About Kojic Acid

Kojic acid is one of the most popular whitening ingredients out in the Philippine market nowadays. From soaps to lotions,  kojic acid and its derivatives (Kojic dipalmitate, Kojic isopalmitate and chloro-Kojic Acid) are quite affordable and accessible, making it a sure hit for the masses. If you're curious on this skin lightener, here are some tidbits you should know.

Kojic acid is a byproduct of  the fungi Aspergillus Oryzae.
This picture shows the fungi on top of rice for fermentation.
(via Flickr)

1. It suppresses the production of melanin.

Melanin is a natural pigment found in most animals and is responsible for the skin's pigment. It is produced from tyrosine with the help of tyrosinase. Kojic acid lessens tyrosinase production, which in turn would reduce production of melanin. This whitening process is akin to how hydroquinone performs, however the effects (and side effects) of hydroquinone are much more pronounced.

2. It reduces your natural protection against UV rays

Skin lightening, while for some is a journey towards their perceived beauty, is allowing oneself to lose the advantage of having some natural sun protection. According to The Skin Cancer Foundation, darker skin has a higher, built-in SPF as compared to whiter skin. While proper sunscreen use is necessary regardless of skin color, this becomes an imperative, a MUST, if you have naturally fair or thank-you-whitening-soap fair skin.

3. Its side effects include skin irritation, increased sensitivity and contact dermatitis. 

Although tests on mice indicate that very high dosages of kojic acid can lead to thyroid damage, no adverse effects were observed in humans. YET. Irritation and allergies may be the only known side effects because despite the rampant use of kojic acid soaps, washes and creams everywhere, studies about side effects on humans are not as common as whitening addicts would like to think. 

The good old routine of patch testing prior to use still holds for kojic acid, whether or not you have sensitive skin.

4. It is not advisable to be used with exfoliation.

According to the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS), the use of kojic acid together with ingredients that disturb the skin's barrier is UNSAFE. Exfoliation disturbs this skin barrier in order to remove the dead skin cells and give way to the healthier cells underneath. It's funny how most kojic acids soaps on the market do have exfoliators within their ingredient lists such as glycolic acid, papaya or calamansi... Aha!

5. Its safe concentration is not yet established. 

The safe concentration is 1% by weight only if used on leave-on products. However, the market is not saturated with 1% leave-on creams, rather it is flooded by soaps and washes! For this, the SCCS calls on more data to establish safe margins for consumers.

The US FDA is still silent on products with kojic acid.

6. Its safety on pregnant or breastfeeding women is unsure.

Again, due to the very limited studies concerning the effects of this ingredient on humans, its safety with respect to pregnancy and breastfeeding is questionable, putting this very affordable ingredient on the same category (more on pregnancy skincare no-no's here) as amoxicillin and clindamicin.

While the side effects of kojic acid are still being researched, consumers should be advised to take extra care for their skin should they decide to hop in the whitening train. Patch testing, religious sunscreen use, abstinence from exfoliators, and using the correct products is key to a partially use of kojic acid.